The essentials, briefly

A short cheat sheet for the range.

• Skirting boards, mouldings, polystyrene and polyurethane trim — ALL DECOR decor adhesive; if the wall is uneven and the joints need filling — ALL DECOR adhesive filler.
• PVC and MDF wall panels, architraves, dense skirting boards — SilaFix FS-50 (basic) or FS-100 (twice as strong, 100 kg/m²).
• Glass, light and glossy surfaces where the joint must stay invisible — clear FS-75 (solvent-free) or FS-200 (instant grab, contains solvent).
• Mirrors, window sills, natural stone, exterior signs, wet rooms — the MS polymer adhesive sealants FS-150 (150 kg/m²) and FS-300 (300 kg/m²).
• Gaps, joints, window and door abutments, bathroom joints — the acrylic sealant; it is not meant to bond.

If your task is unusual, describe it in the form at the bottom of the page and we will suggest a product.

You can: wall panels, skirting boards and architraves, mouldings and trim, mirrors and glass, ceramics and decorative stone on walls, plasterboard, wood, metal, PVC. The adhesive holds on brick, concrete, plaster, plasterboard, wood, chipboard, MDF and OSB.

You cannot or should not: wallpaper (the bond holds only as well as the wallpaper does), porcelain tiles and floor tiles (they need tile adhesive that carries weight and foot traffic), plumbing fixtures and anything under permanent water, PTFE, polyethylene and polypropylene (no product in the range sticks to them). Foam and expanded polystyrene must not be glued with rubber-based FS-200 — the solvent destroys them; use the water-based ALL DECOR and acrylic SilaFix instead.

On paint — yes, if the paint itself holds: it does not chalk, flake or peel off in sheets. Lightly sand and degrease glossy enamel. Chalk whitewash and old flaking paint must be removed and the substrate primed.

On wallpaper the adhesive holds only as well as the wallpaper holds on the wall: light trim is acceptable, panels, mirrors and heavy parts are not — remove the wallpaper where the adhesive goes.

On tiles and glass — yes, with a reservation: acrylic formulations release water through the substrate, so at least one of the bonded surfaces must absorb it. If both sides are smooth (glass on tiles, metal on ceramics), take the MS polymer FS-150 or FS-300 or rubber-based FS-200 — they do not need an absorbent substrate.

In a bathroom and a kitchen — yes, but not under permanent water. The acrylic FS-50 and FS-100 are water-resistant: occasional splashes and humid air do not harm the joint, but a shower tray or a shelf with water constantly running over it is too much. FS-300 and the acrylic sealant are made specifically for wet rooms; for bathroom joints use the sealant, which also prevents mould.

Outdoors, the MS polymer FS-150 and FS-300 work: they are not afraid of rain and UV, are applied from −20 °C and keep the joint from −40 to +120 °C. Rubber-based FS-200 also suits exterior work on dense materials. The ALL DECOR adhesives are for interiors only.

Any solvent-free product: the ALL DECOR decor adhesive and adhesive filler, the acrylic SilaFix FS-50, FS-75 and FS-100, and the MS polymer FS-150 and FS-300. They are water- or polymer-based and leave foam intact.

The only exception in the range is rubber-based FS-200: it contains an organic solvent that dissolves expanded polystyrene and foam. It is not used for foam trim.

“Liquid nails” is the everyday name for construction adhesive: a product that replaces nails and screws when fixing panels, skirting boards and trim. In our range these are the acrylic SilaFix FS-50, FS-75, FS-100 and rubber-based FS-200.

An adhesive sealant is an MS polymer product (FS-150, FS-300): it not only holds the part but stays elastic, fills and seals the joint, and takes vibration, moisture and frost. It is chosen for heavy and moving joints, mirrors, stone and outdoor work.

A sealant is a separate product for joints and abutments: it fills the gap, takes paint and keeps water out, but carries no load. The acrylic sealant has no rated grab at all.

290 ml cartridges fit any standard sealant gun — skeleton or half-barrel. For thick FS-300 a gun with a reinforced mechanism or a ratio of 1:12 and above is more convenient: an ordinary household gun makes extrusion hard work.

You can do without a gun only for small jobs: cut the nozzle and push the plunger with something of a matching diameter — you will not get an even bead, and your hands will tire quickly. A gun is cheap and pays off on the first cartridge. Buckets are applied with a spatula; no gun needed.

The substrate must be clean, sound and free of dust, grease and flaking paint. For acrylic formulations it must be dry — moisture up to 8 %; the MS polymer FS-150 and FS-300 bond damp materials, but not wet ones.

Loose and highly absorbent surfaces need priming: fresh plaster, gypsum, aerated concrete, old filler. Smooth dense materials need degreasing: glass, metal, glossy paint, plastic. White spirit or an alcohol cleaner will do, followed by a clean dry cloth. A sound concrete or brick wall and plasterboard need no separate primer.

Apply not a continuous layer but strips, dots or a zigzag: panels — strips every 10–15 cm and around the perimeter, skirting boards and mouldings — one strip on the back, heavy parts — a continuous strip around the edge and a zigzag inside. The part will sit flat and no excess will squeeze into the joints.

One 290 ml cartridge gives about 14 metres of a 6 mm bead; for area-based estimates the guide is up to 160 g/m² for construction adhesives and up to 200 g/m² for the adhesive filler. The sealant covers 14–15 metres of a 5 mm joint. The coverage calculator gives a more precise figure; allow a 10–15 % reserve.

You can let go almost at once: press for 4–5 seconds and the part holds on its own (FS-200 after contact pressing, FS-75 after the adhesive has dried for 5–6 minutes). Then the adhesive builds strength: acrylic formulations and the MS polymer FS-150 and FS-300 take 24 hours; rubber-based FS-200 dries in 10–15 minutes but takes full load only after 3–5 days.

During this time the part is not touched, loaded or painted, and heavy parts are held with supports or masking tape. Shelves, hooks and anything things will hang on are loaded only after full curing.

Yes, all acrylic and MS polymer formulations can be sanded and painted with any type of paint after full curing in 24 hours — together with the skirting board or trim. The ALL DECOR adhesive filler is specifically made so that the joint sands flush and needs no separate filler. The acrylic sealant also takes paint.

The clear FS-75 and FS-200 usually need no painting: the joint is invisible. Do not paint earlier than a day — the paint would go onto a still-damp formulation and crack.

Fresh excess of acrylic formulations and the sealant washes off with water and a damp cloth — right away, before it dries. Fresh traces of the MS polymer FS-150 and FS-300 and rubber-based FS-200 are removed with white spirit; on porous surfaces (untreated wood, plaster) a stain may not wash out, so it is better to mask the edges with masking tape in advance.

Dried adhesive of any formulation can only be removed mechanically: with a spatula, a knife or by sanding. A glued part is taken off by cutting the joint with a wire or a thin knife; the adhesive residue on the wall is scraped off and sanded. Solvents do not work on cured acrylic and MS polymer.

Acrylic formulations are applied at +15 °C and above (the decor adhesive from +12 °C), and the same temperature is needed for the next 24 hours while the adhesive cures: in the cold the water does not leave it and the joint gains no strength. Rubber-based FS-200 works at +15 to +30 °C.

In winter and in unheated rooms the MS polymer FS-150 and FS-300 come to the rescue: they are applied from −20 °C. A cartridge brought in from the cold must warm up to room temperature before work — a cold formulation is thick and hard to extrude.

Almost always the adhesive is not to blame, but one of five things.

• The substrate held poorly: dust, chalk whitewash, flaking paint or wallpaper. The adhesive stuck to the dirt, and the dirt did not stick.
• Both surfaces were smooth and non-porous while the formulation was acrylic: the water had nowhere to go and the joint did not cure. FS-150, FS-300 or FS-200 were needed.
• Cold or damp: acrylics were applied below +15 °C or on a damp wall.
• More than 10 minutes passed between application and fixing — the adhesive skinned over and stopped sticking.
• A heavy part was loaded or left without support before the adhesive built strength (24 hours, 3–5 days for FS-200).

Close the cartridge with the nozzle still holding adhesive or with a plug: the cured plug protects the formulation inside and is simply pushed out before the next job. Store upright at +5 to +20 °C (the sealant up to +30 °C, rubber-based FS-200 up to +27 °C), away from radiators and direct sun.

Close a bucket tightly right after work so the formulation does not skin over; remove the cured film before the next use. An opened pack keeps worse than a sealed one, so it is best to use it up within a few weeks.

Acrylic formulations are designed for freezing in transit: FS-50, FS-100 and the adhesive filler down to −30 °C, the decor adhesive down to −40 °C, clear FS-75 only down to −10 °C, and no more than 5 freeze cycles. The MS polymer FS-150 and FS-300 take down to −40 °C. Let the cartridge thaw at room temperature for a day, without heating it on a radiator or in hot water, and work as usual.

Rubber-based FS-200 must not be frozen at all. If an acrylic formulation has separated, turned grainy or will not extrude as an even bead after thawing, it is spoiled and should not be used.

The guaranteed shelf life of all formulations is 24 months from the production date printed on the cartridge or bucket, provided the pack is sealed and stored at +5 to +20 °C (the sealant up to +30 °C).

An expired acrylic formulation usually thickens, extrudes poorly and sticks worse — it is better not to use it. Thickened adhesive must not be diluted with water: this changes the recipe and the joint will not hold.

The acrylic SilaFix and ALL DECOR formulations, the sealant and the MS polymer FS-150 and FS-300 contain no solvents, have almost no odour and are fire- and explosion-safe — they are used in living rooms with ordinary ventilation.

Rubber-based FS-200 is the exception: it contains a flammable solvent. Work with it only in a ventilated room, away from flame and heaters, do not smoke and wear gloves; the full warning from the packaging is given on the product page. Keep any formulation out of reach of children.